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Kiwi in Dalmatia

Updated: Nov 20, 2019

Where do I even begin? I travelled with Mama Trace to Zadar via Rijeka. It was an early start with a 5 hour stop over in Rijeka. As Mama Trace relaxed in the park I went to explore the heights of the city. The view from the castle was breathtaking. Our relaxing day led to a quiet welcome in to Zadar.


On arrival to the Drunken Monkey hostel we met with our friends from Pula. It was a very chill evening as I refreshed with a splash of yoga by the pool. Later on that evening we all walked to our sister hostel, The Lazy Monkey's Trivia Night. We had a nightcap back at Drunken Monkey where I met Phil, an Australian, who had better banter than most Aussies. Conveniently, Phil had already met our Pula friends Dino (German/Croatian) and Rosemonde (French Canadian). This marked the beginning of our crew that would later be known as the Awesome Foursome.


St. Anastasia BellTower, Zadar (Croatia)

The next day in Zadar was to explore the City with the Awesome Foursome plus Kaylin and Mama Trace. We walked around, creating our own tour of the city. In the afternoon some of the group decided to visit Pag island to soak up the sun by the beach. We made it back to Zadar with just enough time for Rosemonde and I to race to St. Anastasia's belltower. This was the best view for sunset and the best 15Kuna I have spent so far. Sadly, after the sunset, we farewelled Mama Trace as she was staying and the Awesome Foursome were continuing along the Dalmatian Coast. On our return back to the hostel, a fellow kiwi had cooked a barbie for everyone, absolute legend. The night consisted of laughing, drinking, and wild ideas. One of these wild ideas was a late night swim with others from the hostel.


In the morning we casually made our way to the bus stop for our trip to Šibenik. The next part... I am hesitate about sharing... Šibenik was, by far, my favourite city - please don't tell anyone how great it is. Let's not make it a tourist stop. The charm of the city is that it is less travelled to. It is a small town, yet, it was easy to wander the same streets over and over again with the same appreciation. Another reason this city might have such value in my journey was because this was the pinnacle of the Awesome Foursome. We arrived and quickly settled in to our hostel before going to the beach. The water was warm and so peaceful. After a few hours of lounging around we grabbed some food and wine as we headed back to prepare dinner. Since we had missed the sunset, due to our grumbling stomachs, we drunk more and went in to town to drink by the sea. Time seemed obsolete when in the company of the Awesome Foursome. We laughed well in to the night as we roamed the city by moonlight.


The bond you quickly form with travellers is incredible and these bunch of humans were definitely top pick. Our group dynamic had such a smooth ease to it. We had a late night as we tried to fall asleep squeezed into one bed. However, we all bailed once someone started snoring. The next day we were up bright and early with plans to catch up on sleep at the Krka National Park. It was stunning. The lush forest, the gentle bird song, and the white noise of the powerful waterfall created such a tranquil environment. We swam in the falls and bathed in the sun. The crowds slowly picked up closer to midday to which we decided to walk around the park to avoid the masses. It was a truly perfect day. Until we couldn't get home.


Our hostel lady told us the last bus was at 6pm. With our return tickets in hand we were swiftly met at the bus stop with disappointment. The last bus was at 5pm. We quickly came up with our best alternative would be hitchhiking. After a couple minutes of hitchhiking we saw a bus roll in. Fortunately, this bus was going to Šibenik and we could all have a ride if the tour guide who had booked the bus gave us permission. While we waited for the tour guide to get to the bus we were still hitchhiking (sorry Mum and Dad). It didn't take long before a lovely Belgian couple stopped and offered half of the group a ride. We thought that it would be easier to get only 2 people on the bus so we took the ride back to Šibenik. Thanks Belgium couple! As we walked to the hostel we were shocked to see Mama Trace.

We had not expected to see Mama Trace again, especially in the condition she was in. She was the saddest human I have seen. Her face had look liked she'd been beaten and mugged. We rushed over to her and she started getting teary as we hugged her. She quickly divulged what had happened since we left her. Turns out she decided to leave Zadar the day after us. As she rushed to print off a ticket the night before she left, she slipped and fell on the marble pathway. On arrival to Šibenik she went to the nearest medical care to fix her broken nose! Chances had it that she had booked in to the same hostel as us. When the rest of the crew arrived we reunited them with Mama Trace. We decided to find a viewpoint to enjoy the sunset before returning to the hostel for our final family dinner.

The next day we walked and talked, soaking in the sunny day. When the evening came it was time for my friends to move on to Split. I knew that I had to stay otherwise I would regret not seeing Zlarin. It was such a sad moment, being the one left behind. It was as though a great joy in my life had disappeared. I was glad to have Mama Trace to return to. We meet with a couple other girls to walk to a viewpoint for the sunset. We went for a drink afterwards and the French girl gave me the best idea..I could go to Split tomorrow. She told me all I needed to know about Split and I was excited at the chance to surprise and reunite with the Awesome Foursome. Although, Phil would have left by the time I arrived to Split as he was off to Sail Croatia. So, the next day I explored Zlarin to meet my distant relatives.

hours was plenty of time to explore Zlarin without the company of others. I was excited to return to Šibenik so that I could meet up with the other half of the awesome foursome. The bus ride was uneventful and I found the hostel easily. Sadly, the hostel guy ruined my surprise before I arrived. He told my friends that they had a friend coming to see them. When I arrived my friends were happy to see me and I was still able to surprise Rosemonde. It was nice to reunite with them and we enjoyed the Saturday night, cooking dinner and drinking wine on the rooftop. The next day was filled complete rest. We spent the day at the beach and walked around the city. Rosemonde and I decided to go hangout with some couch surfers that night and we met a local, an Italian, and an American. We all walked around the city and the delightful Dario (the local) had a bounty of wealthy knowledge. He talked about the rich history of Split and I saw the city in a new light. It is the only living Roman palace that you will find and it was absolutely magnificent. We meet more friends along the way with Dino meeting us for a drink by the seaside. It was such a memorable night to have gained a deep understanding of Split.


The next morning we had plans to go to an island. However, our plans caused disappointment as we discovered how illogical the ferry times were. The only ferry that departed on the same day at reasonable hours were the boats to Brač. It was a lovely island on a beautifully sunny day. We made friends with some French Canadians who came to explore, swim, and hitchhike around the island with us. Despite things not working out to our original plans, it was such a peaceful day. We returned home to enjoy our last night together with a home cooked meal on the rooftop terrace. The luxuries of the hostel life. In the morning it was sad to farewell Rosemonde. I knew we would meet again in life but I would miss her bubbly face. Dino and I decided to take our time to get ready and strolled to a coffee place. Can you guess who we bumped in to? No, not Mama Trace, it was Rosemonde! Her ride out of Split backfired so she came to hang out one last time and have coffee! At least I'm not the only one who left the group and returned. At 1pm we split ways, no returnsies. Dino and I boarded our bus to Trogir, a small town not far from Split. We had booked in to an Airbnb which was the same price as hostels if two people shared the cost.


On arrival, we were pleasantly surprised. Our room was massive! It had a comfy bed, a kitchen, an ensuite, and a terrace with couch swing. We felt like royalty. It didn't resemble the room we had booked but we were beyond amazed that we didn't think twice about it. Instead of rushing out we decided to enjoy the amenities of our temporary home. After a couple hours, we thought it would be nice to find a secluded swimming spot. As we happily bounced out of our room we were met by the airbnb host. Turned out that there was a mix up with our room. Someone else had my name! When we were checked-in my booking had not been visible so the lady mistook us for the more esteemed guests. We were swiftly moved into our actual room. Our hearts deflated as we went from royalty to plebs within a matter of seconds. The room was cozy, everything within arms reach. In hindsight, this room would entice us to stay out longer and not be inside for the day. We went to search for comfort along the shoreline at a local swim spot. It was a lazy afternoon that stretched in to the evening for us to enjoy, yet another, spectacular sunset. We cruised home and relaxed for the night.


The best part of Trogir was the laid back pace. We had no need to rush and were enjoying the sense of refreshment. We grabbed a bakery breakfast and made plans to explore the island. Our best idea of the day came true as we rented a scooter to explore as much as possible. We found clear aqua ocean at every turn and enjoyed the warm air from the hot day. It was an absolutely perfect day. Of course, beach day isn't complete without ice-cream and a wander through the town. After one last evening beach session, we went out to taste the local cuisine. It was the last night for any members of the crew to hangout together so we reminisced on our Croatia adventures. I felt so lucky to have met people that are now like family to me. Who knew you could meet strangers and have such an easy time travelling with them for a week or more. I think Croatia was the best place for me to have a solid crew since this country was such a contrast to New Zealand. The people express their passion aggressively, they are kind in their way yet are very direct and confrontational. I know I'll have to return to Croatia to visit the islands Hvar, Korčula, and Vis. However, I do feel like I've acquired a real sense for this place. I have already realised a lot about myself and how I handle situations but I'm glad to have had the support and connection to the Awesome Foursome. Till I see you all again, I wish you enough.


Next Stop --> Budapest, Hungary


>>Live Simply, Simply Live<<

MB

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